In a recent gathering at the Niman Ranch Hog Farmer Appreciation Celebration in Des Moines, Iowa, co-hosted by Food Tank, the conversation revolved around the evolving landscape of sustainable farming and the future of the food system. The event marked the 25th year of Niman Ranch, a network of over 600 small and mid-size farmers across the United States committed to sustainable and humane farming practices.

Editor of the Art of Eating, Ed Behr, reminisced about his first experience with Niman Ranch’s pork, a moment that highlighted the quality and impact of sustainable farming. The appreciation event not only celebrated the farmers’ dedication but also underscored the critical role they play in a changing agricultural landscape.

Paul Willis, a Founding Hog Farmer of Niman Ranch, has been a pivotal figure in this movement. His story, and those of many multi-generational farmers within the network, reflect a commitment to sustainable practices that have kept them afloat in an industry facing significant challenges.

Ron Mardesen, a Niman farmer for over 21 years, shared his journey from worrying about losing his farm to confidently planning for the future. Similarly, Deleana and Tim Roseland spoke about the transformative impact Niman Ranch had on their lives and farm, which they now plan to pass on to their son, a fourth-generation farmer and U.S. Army veteran.

Niman Ranch’s resilience is notable, especially considering the drastic decline in U.S. farms with hogs since 1990 and the challenges posed by the hog market crash of 1998 and the COVID-19 crisis. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), there was more than a 70 percent reduction in hog farms during this period. Yet, Niman Ranch not only survived these crises but also ensured fair compensation for their farmers during these challenging times.

The success stories from Niman Ranch are emblematic of a larger movement within the food system, where sustainability and humane practices are increasingly valued. This shift is evident in the efforts of individuals like Toni Tipton-Martin, a James Beard Award-winning journalist and Editor-in-Chief of Cook’s Country, who strives to dispel misconceptions about food origins and celebrate the resilience of African Americans within the food system.

Chefs like Adrian Lipscombe, Founder of the 40 Acres Project, and Lamar Moore, James Beard Ambassador and Executive Chef at Bronzeville Winery in Chicago, are using their platforms to honor the history of recipes and the farmers who produce our food. Their commitment reflects a growing awareness and appreciation for the origins of our food and those who cultivate it.

The need for policy change to support these efforts was also a significant topic of discussion at the event. Nina Oduro, CEO of Dine Diaspora, emphasized the importance of legislation in driving societal change, while Michelle Hughes, Co-Executive Director of the National Young Farmers Coalition, pointed to agriculture’s role in social justice.

Niman Ranch’s activism, particularly in supporting Proposition 12 in California, which demands more humane conditions for farm animals, demonstrates their willingness to challenge industry norms and advocate for sustainable practices.

The event brought together a diverse group of individuals, including family farmers, retailers, food producers, journalists, chefs, and advocates, all united in their mission to support sustainable farming. The gathering served as a reminder of the collective role we all play in shaping a more equitable and sustainable food system.

In closing, TJ Murphy, CEO of Baldor Specialty Foods Inc., poignantly remarked on the need for change in the food industry, emphasizing the urgency to shift from the minority practicing sustainability to making it the majority. The Niman Ranch Hog Farmer Appreciation Celebration was not only a celebration of progress but also a call to action for continued efforts in transforming our food system.